
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Scotcheroo...Woohoo...

OMG Omakase at SUteiShi
Friday, June 11, 2010
Feeling Saucy...

Hot Pepper!
In our first sauce class (of 4), we made three of the classic French "mother" sauces. They're called mother sauces because they're used to make a multitude of other derivative sauces. We made bechamel, veloute, and sauce espangole. To make each of these sauces we had to make rouxs by cooking equal parts flour and butter. The rouxs are used to bind and thicken each of the sauces and are added in the beginning of the sauce making process. There are three types of roux, each of which is described by the color: white, blond, and brown. The brown one was my favorite by a long shot because it has a nutty, bready smell and flavor. The longer a roux cooks, the less binding power it has (so much for my lovely brown roux!). The type of roux used depends on the color and depth of your sauce. So, for the bechamel we used a white roux, for the veloute we used a blond, and for the sauce espangole we used a brown.
For the bechamel we scalded some milk with nutmeg, cayenne, salt & white pepper and an onion. Then we strained the milk into the white roux pot and cooked it until thickened. Bechamel is the base for all sorts of great sauces including the base for mac & cheese! The Sauce Espagnole is a rich sauce with caramelized vegetables, tomato paste, veal stock and brown roux. Veloute is rather plain sounding but somehow delicious with chicken stock, blond roux, and salt & pepper.We saved all the sauces from this class to make derivative sauces in the next class. It was really interesting to see how each of these sauces were used to make other, more flavorful sauces.


Our third sauce night was emulsion sauces. This night we made hollandaise, Mayonnaise, beurre blanc, and vinaigrette. Mayo and vinaigrette are simple emulsions, so we began with them. Emulsions are a mixture of 2 or more liquids, one of which is a fat, suspended. The suspension can be temporary, semi-permanent or permanent. In many emulsions, different stabilizers are used to hold the suspension. In the case of mayo, these are the dijon and egg yolk. Mayo is actually really easy to make at home and well worth it because home-made mayo is delicious. All you need is an egg yolk, some dijon, a little lemon juice, and salt, and then slowly whisk in canola oil. Viola...better than Hellmans.
For our vinaigrette, we used canola oil and whisked this slowly into shallots, vinegar, and dijon. Again, this salad dressing is one of those things that people should make at home instead of buying in the grocery store (not that I don't love a good bottle of Newman's own dressing).
The next sauce was heavenly, but very much so in a fallen angel gluttonous side of heaven's gates. Beurre blanc begins with a shallot, white wine, wine vinegar, bay leaf and peppercorn reduction. Then, cubes and cubes of cold butter are whisked in. This is a wonderful sauce for lobster. If you know how I feel about lobster rolls, then you know I was thinking of nixing the mayo lobster roll and going with a warm lobster roll with this sauce!
The remaining emulsions were a bit more challenging - For Hollandaise and Bearnaise, you have to heat egg yolks over a hot water bath constantly whisking to thicken. In the case of bearnaise, thee egg is combined with a shallot, tarragon, vinegar, black peppercorn reduction and tarragon leaves and butter are added...Delicious! For Hollandaise, lemon juice, clarified butter, and seasonings are added.
Our final night of sauces was contemporary sauces. We made coulis, salsa, relish, infused oils, jus de veau lie, and citrus juice sauce. I wasn't a huge fan of this night. It was a very random mix of sauces that I didn't really like. Maybe I'm just more into the classics!
I ended this week of classes with a serious liquid belly having only consumed sauces for three straight nights!
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Stock, Beef, Veal, Pork, Lamb, & Rabbit...The end of butchering
In the next few classes after I last posted, we finished up the butchering portion of our class. Again, I can't stress how much I LOVED butchering. I know it sounds gross, but your hands are as soft as can be afterwards, and there's something really satisfying about breaking down a large cut of meat into the proper portions to cook. You get a whole new appreciation for what you pick up at your grocery's butcher.

First up for the next chapter of butchering was beef. Before we butchered some beef, we had a brief lecture on the various grades of beef and how it's raised. The bulk of American beef is corn fed, which results in a sweeter flavored beef (I, having a mild sugar addiction, really like this but its probably not the "chef" way to think). If you've never tried it before, grass-fed beef definitely has a much different taste and is worth trying. In class that night, we butchered a flank steak, which is the girdle area that is used for london broil. Next up was butchering a whole tenderloin. This was pretty labor intensive, because we removed a lot of fat and unusable meat to arrive at a tenderloin and two petit filets. If you happen to be cooking tenderloin anytime soon, remember that it should be cooked rare to medium rare otherwise it's texture is stringy and it lacks all flavor.

The tenderloin mid-fabrication
After the labor intensive tenderloin, we cut a whole strip loin into individual steaks. We took home some strip steaks and made the rest for dinner with some of our now famous medium diced potatoes and "green wind" parsley.

A whole sirloin just begging to be fabricated into steaks

The steaks - 1.5 inch thick marbled, marvels!
Dinner is served...How can you not love Steak & Potatoes (note the labor intensive green wind)?
In our next class we moved on to veal, which is a calf that is under 6 months old. We butchered half of the lower quarter of the loin, which included fabricating the kidneys. We started by removing the kidneys and all the fat surrounding them. Chef informed us that this veal fat is often used to make pastry dough, because it results in some of the flakiest dough (the beef fat is similar to lard but its called suet). When I heard this, I knew I had to take some home and try it out. I ended up making jamaican beef patties that were heavenly!
Chef cooked the kidneys in a mustard sauce for us to try. I didn't mind a bite of kidneys, but they're very rich and the texture isn't something I want to have all the time. I guess the best way to put it is that they're interesting. After we removed some of the excess fat from the loin, we removed the flank steak of veal from the bones. This meat is only suited for stew, because it has so much fat and connective tissue that it needs a long cooking time. I took some home and its taken up residence in my freezer ready to be made into julia child's white veal stew sometime soon! Finally, we removed the tenderloin and cut some loin chops, which we fried up for a lovely little dinner.



Frying up some veal for dinner
Veal in a deglazed pan sauce
Our next class was rabbit and pork fabrication. If you haven't seen the trend yet, we pretty much fabricated a loin of everything. Pork night was no different. We started by removing the baby back ribs from the loin and then trimming the pork loin from the remaining bones. Most people have been raised to believe that pork shouldn't be served pink, but in truth the pork loin should be served medium otherwise it will be to dry. For part of our dinner that night, we had a generously seasoned roasted pork loin with mashed potatoes.

Our roasted pork loin dinner
Before we had the pork loin though, we went hunting wrabbits. Okay, so they're really little (see how large my fingers looked in this picture in comparison).
Bugs Bunny
Now, I know you might be thinking gross rabbit. But, let me tell you rabbit is ridiculously delicious. Imagine the best chicken you've ever had and thats what it tastes like but better...moist, white meat. Trust me and try it next time you have the chance before it hops away! The fabrication of rabbit is very similar to chicken, but we cut the thigh and leg portion into two separate servings. Chef cooked the rabbit for us in a fabulous white wine sauce.
Our Fabricated Rabbit

See...doesn't it look delicious?!
Okay...I think I've made my hatred of lamb known throughout all the posts I've ever made. So, you can only imagine how disappointed I was that we were having a whole class devoted to lamb butchery. Boooo...I mean baaaaa. Although, as much as I hate lamb, I have to admit that I didn't mind butchering it. I guess that goes to show how much I really like this stuff!
We fabricated a whole leg of lamb and then frenched a rack of lamb. Chef roasted the racks of lamb for the class dinner. To french the rack of lamb we cleaned the meat from between the bones and then tied a knot really tightly around one bone at a time and pulled hard to remove all the extra stuff on the bone. Viola a rack of lamb.
I felt very Flintstone-ish hefting this leg of lamb onto my cutting board
My frenched lamb chops
Our roasted lamb chop dinner
We're now in the midst of the sauce and soup chapter, which hopefully I'll tell you all about by the end of this week! I hope you didn't miss me too much!