Sunday, August 22, 2010

Chocolate Pop Tart Pie...

I am totally embracing this new pie trend that is growing at an exponential rate. I mean how can you not? Now I realize that given the time of year I should be embracing fruit pies, but how can I resist a chocolate pie. HOW? And in all fairness, I did make that strawberry pie not too long ago. But I blame this chocolate thing 100% on the slice of Mississippi Mud Pie from the Little Pie Company (I also had the Sour Cream Apple pie - both were amazing and I would totally recommend them if you're in that neighborhood). In my absolute need to make things that I've had and loved, I made the Mississippi Mud Pie from Cooking Light. I knew there wasn't a chance that this would be as indulgent as the little pie co, but I knew it would make a nice lighter substitute.

It's a pretty easy pie to make. The crust comes together in the food processor in a few minutes and then rests for about 30 minutes. It's also really easy to work with/roll out.
Once you get that in the pie plate, the filling is also a piece of cake (okay pie). The hardest part about the filling is beating the egg whites to soft peaks and well your trusty kitchenaid can handle that task!

So how was it? Well the first bite reminded me of something very familar. Finally, by bite 3, I knew...this pie tasted exactly like a chocolate frosted pop tart. How could I not love it? In homage to my beloved pop tarts, I've stuck this in the toaster oven before having it as my lunch dessert. What absolute bliss - I get a pie and a pop-tart in one!



I hope this pops up on your table sometime soon.

From the ashes did rise - Review of Annisa

Since Anita Lo reopened Annisa in the West Village after a fire closed it for quite a while, I've been dying to go try it out. Mostly because I'm a huge admirer of the cooking style that combines classic french techniques with asian cuisine. I finally had the opportunity to dine at Annisa this past week. The decor of the restaurant is very clean, earth-toned walls with a more modern design feel. I personally really loved the vibe, as did my dining companion. The only problem that we had was that the majority of two tops were side by side seats (we were very thankful we got there early enough to select an across the table two top). I'm not and don't think I ever will be a fan of sitting next to the person I'm eating with...it's just very awkward feeling for me. But, otherwise, the dining room has a very nice layout. It strikes that lovely balance of feeling fancy without making you feel like you're not fancy enough. The service was present when necessary without being overbearing.

Now for the important stuff - food & drink. Annisa's wine list features wines by wineries that are owned by women (Annisa means woman in arabic). I deferred the wine selection to my friend, who has been very into roses this summer and as such opted for the Mas da la dame, a rose from provence. It was a very excellent, crisp/refreshing choice.

The amuse bouche was a little tart shell filled with duck liver mousse and topped with a currant. As a huge fan of duck liver, I couldn't resist this rich little bite to start things off. The mousse was so smooth and the sweetness of the currant contrasted nicely. I love how delightful amuse bouches do two things simultaneously for me - they immediately put me at ease that I selected a good restaurant while making my heart race with excitement that there is so much good food to still come! The roll that was brought to the table was nothing special, but the butter was beautifully molded into the shape of a flower. But, take my advice and leave the butter looking pretty and untouched and save your room for the rest of the meal. Seriously, leave the carbs...I promise there will be plenty of far more delicious food - it'll be okay.

In a rare change for me, I didn't order the tasting menu. To start, I had the Tuna hot & cold and my friend had the duo of lobster and corn. The tuna cold was a little too much like your general run of the mill tuna tartare. Not that it wasn't delicious, but rather it's just that I've been there done that. The tuna hot on the other hand was magnificent. I have no idea what Chef Lo cooked this tuna in, but the flavor was beyond compare and the tuna was perfectly cooked. My friend exclaimed that she so rarely has properly cooked tuna that this piece was a pleasant reminder of how good tuna can be when it's made right. That said, I think that the duo of lobster and corn was the better choice. On one side of the plate there was a little bowl that tasted like a corn custard crossed with cream of corn that was topped with lobster. On the other side, there was a corn pastry with caramelized onions and lobster. Both were phenominal, but I far preferred the lobster claw on the corn pastry. The claw was tender and just delightful paired with the corn-tinged biscuit and caramelized onions.

The entree options are predominantly fish, but neither of us were in the mood for fish. I ordered the pan roasted farm chicken with sherry, white truffle, pig feet and asparagus and my friend opted for the duck with mousse and a consumme sauce. The duck was very good but I wasn't blown away by the flavor combinations. The chicken on the other hand was outrageously good. It was cooked perfectly with a nice crispy skin and moist inside. The sauce with the pig trotters and white truffle was sinfully rich and the asparagus lightened this nicely. I couldn't have been happier.

Well, okay you know I could be happier...I can end this nice meal with a good sweet. I admire Chef Lo for a number of reasons. But, the most important to me is that she is also in charge of her dessert menu at Annisa. As a lover of all things sweet and a die-hard multi-tasker, this is just really bad a** in the best of ways to me! So, of course I had to see how her desserts stacked up. I would have certainly gone with the beignets, but my friend thought that was a bit heavy sounding. To settle the debate, we asked the waitress's opinion and she said the Millefeuille of strawberries, ricotta, and balsamic was the way to go (by another name this is a napoleon...I agree millefeuille sounds so much better!). The strawberries are marinated in whiskey and lime and have a wonderful sweet pop. I loved this dessert, and the waitress was 100% right this was the best option for a summer dessert! Hooray for multi-taskers.

After our dessert was done, a trio of petit fours were placed on our table. Love petit fours! The first was a strawberry pineapple pop that was the very definition of refreshing. The next was a nice sliver of candied ginger. And the final was a mint chocolate - the perfect way to end a fabulous meal.

All in all, I loved Annisa in that way that you just know despite the never ending list of places to try in Manhattan you'll still end up back here.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

An answer to my Salty Friends

I love my friends. But sometimes, just sometimes, I wish I could change them a little bit. The thing that bothers me the most about a lot of my friends is that they don't have the same love (okay obsession) as I do with all things sugar. I try my best to sway them over to the sweet side...sometimes I succeed, sometimes I fail. But no matter what, I keep trying to beat out the more salty snacks. So when I was debating what I should make to bring for my first weekend at my Newport summer house, I knew I hit gold when I came across a recipe for caramel popcorn in the style of cracker jacks. A lot of recipes I saw for caramel corn used corn syrup, which I wanted to avoid. I really liked that this recipe used a real caramel with sugar, water, and butter.

I tweaked the recipe a little bit, because I wanted a sweeter rather than spicy caramel corn. My tweaking involved adding just a bit over 1/4 tsp of cinnamon and decreasing the cayenne to a little pinch with the baking soda. Other than that, I followed the recipe exactly. A half cup of popcorn pops up to a good volume, so make sure the pot you make it in is large enough to accomodate it (mine was just barely big enough and the lid was lifted up by the popped corn!). I mixed in the peanuts to the popcorn and began the caramel.


So exciting that it popped right over the sides of the pot!

Once the caramel was an amber color, I mixed in the baking soda and spices, poured it over the corn and peanuts, and then gave it a good mix before spreading it on silpats that I had set up in two sheet pans. I like using my silpat for this type of work, because its a good non-stick surface.


The caramel popcorn cooling on the silpat

Let's hope that this combo salty-sweet snack has my friends leaning towards the sweet side! Well that is if the popcorn makes it up to the house. Since it popped, I haven't been able to stop popping bites!

Buy me some peanuts and cracker jacks!

Maybe my friends aren't so bad after all!



My New Science Project

The last time I went with my parents to Costco I was browsing the aisles and came across the most amazing deal. Two huge test tubes of vanilla beans with 6 beans in each (yes, I'm such a huge nerd that vanilla beans make me pause and think everything is right in the world). Right there, in the middle of Costco I had an epiphany...it was a sign from the baking gods. I had to start making my own homemade vanilla extract. I had heard about it from various chefs that I've met who never use any commercially made extract and have always meant to give it a whirl myself. Since that fateful Costco trip, I've been dragging my feet and for no reason didn't immediately make my precious extract. So when I noted that the amount of vanilla extract I had left in my pantry was only enough for a few more baked goods, I decided it was far past time to get this vanilla flavor extracting.

You're not going to believe how easy it is when I tell you how to make your own vanilla. Here's what you need:
-2 cups rum, brandy, or vodka (I used dark rum because I always have dark rum on hand and I like Mexican vanilla extract, which is rum-based)
-6 vanilla beans
-a mason jar with a tight fitting lid (I used a ball mason jar that I picked up at my local hardware store)

All you have to do is put the clean mason jar in boiling water for about 10 minutes to sterilize it. Then completely dry the jar. Split each vanilla bean open and leave the seeds inside. Place the alcohol of your choice in your mason jar, place your vanilla beans inside making sure they're completely submerged, and seal the jar. Shake up the jar and store in a dark place. Shake a couple times a week or whenever it occurs to you. The extract will be ready to use in 8 weeks time. I'm counting down the days. I have to say though...It definitely looks like one of those creepy filled jars you see at a haunted house.

I wasn't kidding - It really does look like some crazy science experiment!

It's a very easy project and I can't help but imagine that it'll be more than worth the effort. Don't worry...in 8 weeks time I'll tell you all about the maiden voyage of my homemade vanilla. I'll also try and remember to post pictures of the process.

I know, I know...vanilla and rum! I can't believe that I didn't make this sooner. I believe allfofood just got a bit more flavorful!






Thursday, July 29, 2010

Strawberry Almond Cream Pie

I'm 100% convinced that pies are the next big thing. Seriously, I am sure they're going to be the new cupcake. That coupled with the fantastic looking strawberries at my grocery store this weekend led me to make this recipe for Strawberry Almond Cream pie for the baked good of the week.

This pie was easy to make and came together pretty quickly. I substituted cinnamon graham crackers in the crust...do I even have to explain why?! While I baked the crust, I made the strawberry puree (I made the puree before the cream cheese mixture so it would have more time to cool down before I put the pie together). The recipe makes more puree then needed for the pie. So, I've been eating it with my yogurt this week.
Strawberry puree sauce
The almond cream cheese mixture was a piece of cake (okay a slice of pie) to mix together. I loved the combination of the cinnamon graham crackers, strawberries, and almond cream cheese. This pie made for a really nice summery dessert. The only thing I will say is that the crust gets a little soggy after a few days. So, its best to eat the pie within a few days. I know, I know...that's so tough.

Yum...Summer

See for yourself if I'm right...I promise you you'll be proclaiming pie the new cupcake after trying this Strawberry Almond Cream Pie.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Leave with a big grin after dining at the Breslin...

Summer in New York City is almost too hot...especially this year. Hence the massive exodus each weekend to beaches and anywhere that provides an escape from the heat. But, there is absolutely something to be said about staying put a few weekends in the summer. Chief among them is the fact that you can walk into almost any restaurant without a reservation and get yourself a table. My sister and I found ourselves in just this lucky spot on Saturday. We walked into the Breslin, April Bloomfield's new spot in the Ace Hotel. The lines for a table at The Breslin have been talked about almost as much as the food. So when we walked in there this past Saturday, it was a pleasant surprise that we found no line.

A hot summer day calls for a nice cold cocktail. I chose the Lust for Life that was gin with lavender syrup, mint, lemon juice and soda water. It did indeed make you love life but the mint was the strongest flavor and I wanted a little more lavender to shine through. My sister's favorite drink from childhood was Ribena (a blackcurrant syrup that you mix with water) that we used to have our grandparents smuggle over everytime they visited from London. Since one of her favorite adult drinks is prosecco, it was no small wonder that she choose the London Calling, which is vodka, ribena, lemon juice and prosecco. Both cocktails were excellent and made us conclude that we'd definitely come back for cocktails another night, lines be damned.

After reviewing the menu, we decided that given our heat-reduced appetites our best course of action was to split lots of smaller plates. We began with the salt & vinegar potato chips that arrived in a plastic bag. A bit of a waste of a plastic bag in our mind...why not just serve them in a bowl? But forget about presentation, these were amazing. They had the perfect balance of salt & vinegar flavor, they were crisp and slightly warm, and the flavoring on them had somehow clung itself to each and every chip in an almost powdery-like way. In other words, I'd have a hard time eating at the Breslin without ordering them.

Our next dish was the Shibumi oysters with dill pickle juice. The briny pickles and dill coupled with the oysters was something that just made so much sense that I couldn't believe I'd never thought of them as something to pair before. Now, I'll think about oysters with dill pickles just as much as I imagine them with black pepper mignonette. The pickles chopped into small dice with dill strewn throughout on top of the ridiculously fresh oysters melt in your mouth with briny deliciousness. Trust me and order these.

As a side dish, we got the pole beans with a basil pesto. I love when a simple sounding vegetable side dish blows everything else out of the water. The pesto on the beans was basil and olive oil love that I wanted to bottle up and put on everything. The beans themselves were cooked to the perfect crunchy texture. We finished our veggies mom!

Next up was the seafood sausage with buerre blanc. I love the buttery richness of beurre blanc and this was one of the best beurre blancs I've had. If you think I'm kidding about how good the sauce was, you'd have been amazed to see the vigor with which Karen and I were dipping our puff pastry from our final dish into it not wanting to waste a single drop of heaven. The seafood sausage had a lovely shellfish flavor, as if it had been poached in a shellfish broth before it was grilled. The texture was also smooth and not at all chewy, which is often the problem with a seafood sausage. I personally liked the sauce more than the sausage and could have sacrificed the sausage for just a side of the sauce, but Karen loved the seafood sausage and said if we returned she'd want it again.

Our final dish was the Speck and crescenza tart with spring onions. The puff pastry was buttery and warm and the melted cheese and speck were very delicious. A nice, simple dish that was executed perfectly.

Well since we only had small plates, we most certainly had room for dessert! A fruit dessert is a really nice way to finish an evening out in the summer, so we ordered the trifle with peaches, raspberries, and ginger bread pudding. This is not your mother's trifle. The gingerbread cake is not soaked in pudding for hours, so it's solid cake with custard and fresh fruit layered with it and a sorbet on top. I really liked this take on trifle, because I'm not a fan of soggy cake and the combination of textures was far more satisfying and interesting.

As Karen and I left the Breslin, we heard London calling and had a new lust for life. If only we could walk in there any night and get a table!

Monday, July 5, 2010

Soups and the Top Chef-like practical exam...

Our final chapter of Module 1 was soups. One thing that I never really thought about before starting culinary school is that all hot foods need to be served on hot plates (150 or so degrees) and cold foods need to be served on cold plates. Obviously, this means that we had to heat our bowls before serving our soups. There are a lot of different types of soups, but most start with sweating some vegetables for the base. I've made a lot of soups that started with sweating an onion, etc but I realized after this class that I didn't sweat them for long enough or on low enough heat. The key here is you don't want to brown the veggies because that caramelizes them and tends to overwhelm the other flavors in the soup (although there are exceptions to this like some onion soups).

The most important soup we made was the Cream of Broccoli soup. I know it sounds weird that this would be the case...what's so gosh darn important about broccoli?! Well, it's the soup we had to make for our final practical exam for Module 1 of culinary school. The first time we'd be graded on what we cooked. So rest assured we all paid really close attention to this one. The soup began with sweating diced onions, celery, leeks, and broccoli stems in butter (remember broc stems have an enormous amount of flavor so they're perfect for a soup base). While these sweat, we made a veloute by making a roux and then adding in chicken stock and a good amount of salt and a pinch of nutmeg and cayenne. Once this was done, we added the veggies to the veloute along with some chicken stock and cooked this until the veggies were tender. At that time, we pureed the soup and returned it to the pot to heat it to a serving temperature. Then we served it with some broccoli florets.

Beautiful Broccoli Soup - I'm ready for the Test!

That same class we also made a puree of carrot soup that I really, really liked. We began the soup by sauteing ground ginger, cumin, and fennel in some clarified butter than caramelizing some onions in this. After the onions were caramelized, we added some celery and carrots and sweated all the veggies. Next up was the liquid - some white wine and vegetable stock, which we simmered with the veggies until they were tender. Then, we pureed the soup and garnished it with some toasted pine nuts and fennel fronds. You know a soup is good when you don't mind eating it on an 80 degree day and I finished my bowl!

Puree on a hot day!

The final soup of the night was a consomme, which is a clarified stock. It's pretty gross to make because you mix together egg whites, a lean ground meat, veggies, and tomato and put this in a broth. You then bring this to barely a simmer and wait until all this floats to the top and forms what is called a raft. Then you make a whole in the raft and cook this at a simmer until the broth is clear. I'm not going to lie, its pretty wild to see how clear the broth becomes. See for yourself...


Let me clarify something - making consomme is a pretty gross process!

Our next soup class was hearty soups, bisques, and cold soups. There is something about cold soup that creeps me out...it just seems so wrong. I mean its not as low on my list as processed food but I'm about as likely to eat both. So, I'll write about the gazpacho we made first and get it over with. It was pretty easy to make - blanch, peel, seed, and chop some tomato. Then, add pepper, cucumber, onion, jalapeno, garlic, and some white bread and pureed this. Put in some tomato juice to thin it and some chopped cilantro, salt and pepper for seasoning. It just doesn't seem right to me to eat this with a spoon...I feel like it should be on a tortilla chip!

And now for the good stuff from this class...Lobster bisque and onion soup. In traditional bisques, the shells are actually cooked and pureed with the soup, but because shells are tough on blenders/processors we didn't puree these with the soup (I'm pretty glad about this because the idea of eating pureed shells is a bit disturbing). For the lobster bisque, I took on the lobster cooking...I am terrified of cooking lobsters because of the whole its still alive when you toss it in boiling stock to kill it thing and I want to overcome this fear because I really enjoy lobster. I killed 5 lobsters this class and now I feel a lot better about being responsible for murdering lobsters. While we removed the meat from the shells, we sweated some mirepoix in a pot. We put the lobster shells into the fish stock we were going to use and simmered this to add more flavor. When the mirepoix had sweated sufficiently, we added tomato paste and strained the shells from the fish stock and added this to the pot. We simmered this mixture with some rice and pureed it when everything was softened. Separately, we sauted the lobster meat in some butter and then flambed it with brandy (yes...yum!). We added some cream to the soup base and some seasonings (our group opted for some tarragon) and then ladled some soup over lobster meat in a bowl with some croutons. This bisque was every bit as delicious as it looks...

Lobster Bisque with lobster meat slaughtered by yours truly!

The onion soup we made was pretty sweet (in a sugar content way not in the slang for excellent way). I love onion soup, but this one was not rich enough for me. Although, we served it with a toast with melted cheese on top, which just brings a big goofy grin to my face regardless. We caramelized the onion until it was an amber brown, then we deglazed the pan with some apple brandy (which was a bit over-powering) and added veal stock. This was simmered for about 40 minutes. We seasoned it with salt and pepper and then ladled it into gratin bowls which we topped with toasts and cheese. This went under the broiler to melt.

Onion Soup that'll bring a smile to your face

The next night was our practical exam for all of module 1. We had to medium dice a potato, cook a cream of broccoli soup, and make a mayonaisse. To ensure that we would all finish in a staggered time line, we each picked a number from a hat to decide when we would start cooking. The first person began immediately and then each subsequent person started 5 minutes apart. I picked number three, which I thought was ideal. I have to admit I was very nervous. So when I got into the kitchen and began to chop veggies for my cream of broccoli soup, I decided that I should maybe do something else first, because my hands were shaking enough to make any activities with knives an ill-advised idea. Once I calmed down, I was able to finish my soup, make my mayo, and dice my potatoes without too many problems. When I was within 5 minutes of finishing, I had to announce that I was ready to the chef. Then, I had to present each of the three items to him for my grade. The soup portion included requiring that the bowl was heated. The only part that I didn't do very well was the dicing of the potato. Everything else was A-okay! When I finished this exam, I couldn't believe that I was already done with a fifth of culinary school. I feel like I have so much more to learn and I really can't wait to learn it!

One Module down, four more plus an externship to go!