Friday, May 14, 2010

Shellfish and Poultry

This week in culinary school we started getting a lot more hands on. We had one class completely devoted to shellfish and one entirely about poultry fabrication (the fancy term chefs use to describe breaking down animal meat).

Okay, so I have to apologize in advance...I forgot my camera in the shellfish class so there are no photos from it. Believe me, I'm very angry with myself for this oversight, because there were a ton of great photo ops. If I get some photos from a classmate, I'll be sure to add them later. In the meantime, my vivid descriptions of the class will have to suffice.
We got to try our hand at most varieties of shellfish. Shellfish are seafood that, as the name suggests, have a shell. They fall into the following categories: Univalves (mollusks with one shell like conch), Bivalves (mollusks with two shells like oysters, clams, and scallops), crustaceans (have exterior skeletons like lobster and crabs), and cephalopods (tentacles - like squid). Class began with a brief overview of how to buy, store, and clean shellfish. Mussels, oysters, and clams have to be stored cold on ice (not in water or they'll drown). These all have to be rinsed in three changes of cold water because they have a lot of sand and grit on them. We each got to shuck clams and oysters. I actually was able to do both without too much trouble and without cutting myself! I was rewarded with some oysters topped with some delicious mignonette. The mussels were cleaned and their beards removed. The scallops we had were already shelled so we only need to remove the white muscle from each and rinse them.

Chef explained that female lobsters have sweeter meat, but there's not an easy way to tell the difference between female and male lobsters. Typically, male lobsters have narrow tails, while female lobsters have wider hips/tails. This difference is not always noticeable and quite honestly I couldn't see any difference in any of them. We each had to kill a lobster by putting a knife in the back of its head and pushing down. I decided quick was the way to go here and was happy to find that was the right choice. This being the fourth lobster I've killed, I feel like I'm getting the hang of it and am less afraid of it. I'll still never get used to the fact that lobsters keep moving for a while after they're killed (yes its super creepy when you grab the tail and it snaps up around your hand). We removed the claws and the tail and cooked them in stock until they were bright red. Once they cooled, we took out the meat and saved it for the chowder. I must confess that a claw of my lobster's meat didn't make it to that chowder pot! We peeled the shrimp and deveined it to prep for the stew. We infused the fish stock we were using as our chowder base with the shrimp shells and lobster bodies. Apparently, one should never throw away shrimp shells, because they make the best stock.

The most fascinating of the shellfish to me were the squids. We cut the tentacles from the hood (top) of the squid. In the top of the squid there is this clear quill that has to be removed. This quill is very strange. It looks like a long thin piece of plastic. We peeled and then cut the squid into bit sized pieces ready for our shellfish chowder.

The end of class we added cream to our fish stock and brought this up to a simmer. Then we added all our shellfish to cook it (everything but the lobster needed to cook in the soup). Chef sprinkled the chowder with some thyme. The chowder was absolutely delicious and chock-a-block full of fresh shellfish.

Next night's class was the poultry class. We began the class like most with some knife skills practice, ie cutting vegetables into various sized julienne or dice. This night, we did potatoes in a medium dice, which means we get to make these amazing homefries. We begin by putting the diced potatoes in cold, heavily salted water and bringing them to a boil. Then we strained and put them aside to be pan-fried later.

Our knife skill practice potatoes frying up in clarified butter
Crispy, buttery potatoes that make knife skills practice worth it!

After we prepped the vegetables, we had a lecture on poultry. Then we trussed a chicken, because when roasting a chicken whole its important to keep its shape and hold in the juices.


Trussed Chicken

After we trussed the chicken, we untied it and fabricated the chicken. The method we were taught for quartering the chicken was different from how I've been taught in the past. But, I have to say that it was the easiest method I've ever used. We started with the tail pointing towards us and cut down each side of the backbone and removed it. Then we cut through the other side of the chicken so that we had two chicken halves. With each, we split the breast from the thigh without having to cut through the bone. Viola...quartered chicken. After this, we split the leg from the thigh and cut the breast into two portions. With our next chicken we skinned and boned the breast and used these pieces to make pan-fried chicken for our dinner.

My fabricated Chicken

We cleaned our boards and then fabricated a duck each. We were sent home with the duck breast, which was beyond exciting. Duck is one of my favorite meats, but one that I've never made at home. Since the fat is so much thicker on the duck, it was much harder to quarter then the chicken. We also removed a portion of the fat from the breast so it would fry easier and render less fat. This worked really well when I fried it at home for dinner...delicious!

Duck!


Now that we're cooking a bit more, I'm loving class more and more. I can't wait until next week, which is chicken stock and beef.

Who doesn't love cooking with class?






Saturday, May 8, 2010

A toast to Coconut Chocolate Chip Cookies...

I don't know what inspired me to make these cookies. I guess I just wanted a quick, easy treat for the week that wasn't super terrible for me. Since I started culinary school, I haven't been able to do my Sunday baking. The problem is that I still like to have a baked good everyday...you just can't cold turkey on addictions people. I really miss my baked goods (although the limited edition coconut M&Ms have made my predicament a bit more tolerable).



So in my despair, I came across this recipe for Toasted coconut Chocolate Chip Cookies in Cooking Light. The picture in Cooking Light did no justice to this cookie - in the magazine they looked dry. So, again I have no idea what made me make them (maybe I was thinking of the coconut m&ms?). Regardless, I'm really pleased that I didn't let the picture fool me. I mean were these the absolute best cookies I've ever had? No, but they're definitely a cookie I'll make again. And they're very enjoyable for a different little take on a chocolate chip cookie. You begin by toasting the coconut...which smells amazing. Then, its pretty much your typical cream the butter and the sugar and add eggs and flour and leaveners. I really thought from the picture that these were going to come out a bit too crispy but to my delight they were soft with a pleasant little hint of coconut. I will say that I cooked them for 8-9 minutes, because I feared a dry cookie. I also used regular chocolate chips because thats what I had!



mmm...cookies

Not a bad little cookie to satisfy a baked good craving

A long time coming...

I know, I know...I've been gone forever and you know that I can't possibly be out of the kitchen this long. So the truth is this, I've been overwhelmingly busy cooking. Do you feel betrayed that I haven't shared this with you before now? I'm sorry...I truly am. But, I'm here now and ready to tell you about how I'm finally fulfilling my dream of going to culinary school. I personally think that's a brilliant excuse for my absence. Hopefully, you agree and we can get past this.

I started culinary school 3 weeks ago. Before you ask...No, I have no idea whether this means I'll quit my day job and work full-time in a restaurant. The only thing I know is that going to culinary school is just something I have to do. So here's the deal...

We have 3 classes a week. The first week was mostly administrative stuff, including meeting our career advisor. This career advisor might be a problem for me...I'm not a huge fan. She laid out how we'd all be making salads for the first year out of school all for a measly $8 an hour. She also said we should volunteer at food banks and build our resume. Well as lovely as that sounds where in our schedules of full-time work and three nights of school does she think this will fit? In my opinion, a career advisor should make you feel excited about your future in the industry, but this woman just terrified me about my future. I'm not saying I wanted her to paint this unrealistic picture of how lovely working in a restaurant kitchen will be. I'm just saying maybe wait until the second month to give us a reality check instead of being a killjoy in the second class. The next class was equally upsetting, as it was all about sanitation and horror stories about how sick you can make people with contaminated food. I totally understand the necessity of the lesson, but all the same it's tough to stomach!

With week 1's less than exciting classes behind us, week 2 began with knife skills and a substitute chef instructor, who rather than teach us decided she'd just set us loose on some poor unsuspecting veggies. With these veggies, we threw together a salsa and then the chef yelled at us to clean up quickly since she'd been there since 7am. Um chef, we've been at work all day too. Also, since it was the first time we actually made anything none of us had any idea how to clean the kitchen. Needless to say, I was left wondering whether I picked the right school as my classmates and I buzzed around the kitchen trying to figure out where to put everything and how to use the dishwasher.

These fears were quickly laid to rest when our normal chef returned to us the next evening and taught knife skills, herb identification, and cheese identification. In that lesson, we diced potatoes, julienned carrots, and minced parsley until it was a "green wind". The green wind stage of parsley is very intense...It takes a good 5 minutes of constant knife movement. I have to admit that the next day my arm felt like it was going to fall off. During the herb identification, we learned the most common herbs and tasted each of these. At the end of class, we tasted about 20 different types of cheese from soft to crumbly to aged to blue. I went home that night and fell into a deep slumber with a happy belly full of cheese.

The next class we had our first quiz on sanitation and herb id. I'm happy to report that I aced it...woohoo! After our quiz, we had a lecture on culinary math (conversions from various measurements and upping a recipe that serves 4 to serve 10, etc). Then we had more knife skills...this time around we did a small dice of potato. We blanched some broccoli and green beans and par-boiled the potatoes and fried them in some butter. Yum!

In the next class, we had greens identification (useful since we'll be working in salads for a year!) and cleaning techniques. We julienned red and green cabbage and then wilted them with salt in a colander to remove the excess moisture. Once these were wilted, we made a mayo based green cabbage slaw and a red wine vinegar slaw with the red cabbage. I loved both of these slaws - for the green cabbage slaw we added champagne vinegar and fresh dill to it - I really think the dill added so much to this and I'm definitely putting fresh dill in all the slaws I make from now on. I also will be making a lot of slaw this style all summer. Each group also prepared one type of cooking green (kale, swiss chard, and collard greens). My group did the collard greens - we began by frying some bacon and then cooked the greens in the fat until they were fully wilted.

Our collard greens with bacon and our green cabbage slaw

The next class we had a lecture on the kitchen brigade system, the various positions in a professional kitchen, purchasing ingredients, and finding sources for ingredients. Then we discussed eggs, cut more veggies to continue honing the knife skills, and then tasted different cooking oils. We then each cooked 3 scrambled eggs in 3 different fats. According to chef, eggs should be moist, soft, and salty likes a strangers lips...I'm not so sure I'll be able to look at eggs or strangers lips in quite the same way anymore.

MMM...Strangers lips

Our next class is when the real fun began. We fileted three different fish - a flounder, a red snapper, and a mackeral. With the flounder and snapper fish bodies (mackeral is too oily to use for the stock), we made a fish stock. Then, we used this stock along with some veggies and the flounder filets to make a fish stew with tomato and a touch of cream. We also had some of the mackeral sushi style, since its a very good sushi fish (news to me but holy mackeral!).

One Fish - Flounder


Two Fish - Red Snapper

Three Fish - Holy Mackeral

Flounder Filets

Mackeral Filets

The fish stew had a lovely fish flavor from the homemade fish stock. The flounder filets were added at the last minute and cooked quickly in the stew at a boil. We got to take the rest of our filets home to chef up anything our little hearts desired. Red snapper cooked in parchment with thyme and tomato anyone?


Happily, this fish class put me in full "this is why I'm going to culinary school mood" (as you can see but all the photos I snapped I was very into it!). The class was so much fun that I hardly noticed it was 10pm when I was sampling a bowl of fish stew and mackeral sushi!







Stew on this delicious fish stew

I hope you all have forgiven this overdue post in exchange for the start of my overdue dream...